BENGALI CUISINE:
HISTORY:
1)
A distinct culinary tradition emerged in
Bengal based on the availability of local ingredients. The great river systems,
heat and humidity combine with the fertile soil to allow rice and an abundance
of vegetables to thrive; these became the corner stones of the diet. Mangoes,
bananas, coconuts, and cane sugar grew in abundance; fish, milk, and meat were
plentiful; yogurt and spices such as ginger and black mustard would season the
dishes.
2)
Even though fish and meat were generally popular,
there was a predisposition to vegetarianism, based on religious principles,
that has continued to the present.
3)
Rice, the staple of Bengalis since ancient
times, has remained untouched by the currents of religious change and its
preparation has held to a continuing high standard. One crop a year was
sufficient to sustain the people, providing ample leisure time for the Bengalis
to pursue cultural ideals: folklore, music, and the culinary arts. Before the
arrival of Europeans in the early 16th century, the staple of Bengali cuisine
was locally grown rice, as it is today. According to Shunya Purana, a
medieval text, fifty kinds of rice were grown in Bengal.
4)
In the 9th and 10th century, there were over
40 varieties of rice, 60 kinds of fruits and more than 120 varieties of
vegetables in Bengal. Vegetables included cucumber, carrot, various kinds of
gourds, garlic, fenugreek, radish, lotus root, mushroom, eggplant, and green
leafy vegetables. Among the fruits eaten were peaches, water melon, banana, mango,
amalaka, lime (nimbu), grapes, oranges (imported from China or Indochina around
the beginning of the Christian era), pear (also introduced by the Chinese),
jujube, almond, walnuts, coconut, pomegranates, bananas, and many fruits with
no Western equivalent.
5)
Until the 12th century, spices used in
Bengali cooking were limited to turmeric, ginger, mustard seed, long pepper,
poppy seeds, asafoetida, and sour lemon. Long pepper was replaced first by
black peppercorns brought from the west coast of India and later by the cheaper
chili, which thrived in Bengali soil. Spice traders also brought cinnamon,
cardamom, and cloves. Various methods of preparation were used, including
frying in both shallow and deep fat. Cooking media included ghee by those who
could afford it, mustard oil, still popular today in Bengal, and sesame oil.
6)
The European traders introduced food from the
New World - potatoes, chillies, and tomatoes. Bengalis incorporated them into
their diet, combining them with a variety of native ingredients creating new
dishes.
7)
The Bengali love of sweets goes back into the
Middle Ages. Sugar has been grown in Bengal and India since ancient times, as
indicated by its Sanskrit name, sharkara. Texts dating back to the 12th and
13th century texts describe a number of dishes based on milk, partly thickened milk, and milk
solids.
BENGAL, the laud of maach
(fish) and bhat (rice), of rosogolla and sandesh. The cuisine of
West Bengal differs from that of Bangladesh. The Brahmins of Bengal eat fish
and no celebration is complete without it. The market is flooded at anytime
with all sizes and shapes of carp, salmon, hilsa, bhetki, rui, magur,
prawns, koi etc which can be fried, steamed or stewed with curd. Most of
the Bengalis will not touch the salt water fish complaining that the fish is
not sweet enough. Historically, food in Bengal has always been strongly
seasonal. The range of food materials in moist and fertile Bengal is
exceptionally wide, ranging from cereals, tubers and rhizomes, vegetables,
green pot herbs to a variety of spices and fish.
The most important
part eating Bengali food is eating each dish separately with a little bit of
rice. Bengali cuisine is a combination of vegetarian and non – vegetarian
dishes. A day begins with moori (puffed rice) with potatoes, cucumber,
green chilli and mustard oil, tea or milk.
CUISINE
CHARACTERISTICS:
1.
The staple food of Bengal is rice and fish.
The fishes commonly used in this cuisine includes Hilsa (Ilish), Carp (Rui),
Dried fish (shootki), Indian butter fish (pabda), Clown knife
fish (Chitol maach), Mango fish (Topsey), Sea Bass (Bhetki),
Prawns / Shrimps (Golda chingri / kucho chingri), Catfish (Tangra /
Magur), Perch (koi), Katla. Lightly fermented rice is also
used as breakfast in rural and agrarian communities (panta bhat).
2.
The principal medium of cooking is mustard
oil. A distinct flavour is imparted to the fish dishes by frying them in
mustard oil, before cooking them in the gravy. Mustard paste is also commonly
used for the preparation of gravies.
3.
Fish is also steamed by the Bengalis (e.g, Bhapa
Ilish ). The most preferred form of meat in Bengal is mutton, or goat meat.
Khashi (castrated goat) or Kochi pantha (kid goat), is also
common.
4.
Special seasonings such as
i) panch phoron - a combination of Cumin seeds (jeera), Fennel
seeds (mouri), mustard seeds (sorse), Methi seeds and onion seeds
(kalonjee). Sometime Celery seeds (radhuni) also becomes a part
of the panch phoron. (ii) Radhuni
(iii) Poppy seeds (posto) are extensively used in the cuisine.
5.
The garam masala made up of Cloves (laung),
Cinnamon (dalchini), Nutmeg (Jaiphal),
Mace (Javitri), small and large cardamom (Elichi) etc.
6.
Bengalis also eat flowers like those
of bokphul, pumpkin, banana, water reeds, tender drumsticks and peels of
potato or pumpkin.
7.
A lunch consists of Rice, Bhaja
(assorted fried items including vegetables and fish), Leafy vegetable - Saag
(palong saag, Pui saag, Lal saag etc), Sukto, Various dals (lentil) such as Moong,
Masoor, Beuli, Arhar, Cholar dal etc, followed by different Vegetarian
preparations, Fish and Meat (Chicken or Mutton) preparations. This is followed
by the Chutney and papad and finally the sweets of which there
are endless mouth watering varieties such as Rosogolla, Sandesh, Misti doi,
Rabri, Mihidana, Sitabhog, Rajbhog, Kamalabhog, Kalakad etc
8.
Roti, Paratha, Luchi are also common.
9.
The very common snacks include the “Jhal
moori” various kinds of Telebhaja (Chops - vegetable, egg
etc, Beguni, Peyazi), kachudi, singhada, egg roll, chicken roll, puckha
(puffed mini stuffed with mashed potato and dipped in tamarind water), nimkis
(maida dough rice with black onion seeds shaped into triangles and deep fried),
chanachur etc.
10.
Sweet Dishes reflect a
special culinary expertise of the state and the variety is one of the largest
in the global culinary spectacle. The most common ones include: Rosogolla,
Sandesh (Narompak – soft or korapak – hard), Misti doi, Rabri, Mihidana,
Sitabhog, Rajbhog, Kamalabhog, Kalakad, Chum chum, Jolbhora,
ladycanny/ladykini, Chaler payash, Chenar payash, darbesh, Malpoa, shor bhaja,
langcha etc. The two basic ingredients of Bengali sweets are sugar and
milk. The milk is thickened either by boiling it down to make a thick liquid
called khoa, or by curdling it with lemon juice or yogurt to produce
curds, called channa. Sugar is not the only ingredient with which the
sweetness is imparted in the sweets, various jaggery (gur) which
includes patali gur, khejur gur (date jaggey) etc. The main body of the sweets
are mostly made of coconut, til seeds, rice, rice flour, refined flour etc
apart from Chenna.
Traditional
home made delicacies include the following:
·
Various kinds of Pitha (a pancake like
sweet base of semolina or flour which is rolled around a variety of fillings
like coconut and kheer and fried in ghee - chandrapuli, gokul, pati
shapta, chitai piţha, aski pithe, muger puli and dudh
puli). Pithas are usually made from rice or wheat flour mixed with
sugar, jaggery, grated coconut etc. These are usually enjoyed with the sweet
syrups of Khejur gur (Date tree molasses)/ they are usually fried or
steamed – the most common ones include bhapapitha (steamed), Pakanpitha
(fried) and Pulipitha (dumplings)
·
Moa (flat rice or puffed
rice bound with jaggery cooked to a correct degree and then made into
dumplings). Another popular kind of moa is Jaynagarer Moa, a moya particularly
made in Jaynagar, South 24 Parganas district, Paschimbanga (West Bengal) which
uses khoi and a sugar-milk-spices mixture as binder. Moas are made
specially during winter.
·
Naru (Grated coconut or
til seeds bound with cooked jiggery or sugar and formed into dumplings) etc.
·
Aamsotto (thickened mango
pulp) is another home made delicacy.
A
TYPICAL BENGALI MEAL STRUCTURE
The procession of
tastes at a meal runs from a bitter start to a sweet finish.
·
To start with, especially at lunch, is Sukto.
·
Rice is first savoured with ghee, salt and
green chillis, then comes dhal accompanied by fried vegetables (bhaja)
or boiled vegetables (bhate), followed by spiced vegetables like dalna
or ghonto.
·
Then comes fish preparations, first
lightly-spiced ones like maccher jhol, and then those more heavily
spiced.
·
This would be followed by a sweet-sour ambal
or tauk (chutney) and fried papads. The chutney is typically tangy and
sweet; usually made of aam (mangoes),
tomatoes, anarôsh (pineapple), tetul (tamarind), pepe (papaya),
or just a combination of fruits and dry fruits called mixed fruit chutney
served in biye badi (marriage).
·
A dessert of mishti-doi (sweet curds),
accompanied by dry sweets, or of payesh, accompanied by fruits like the
mango, will end the meal, with paan (betel leaves) as a terminal
digestive.
Traditionally meals
were served on a bell-metal thala (plate) and in the batis (bowls, except for
the sour items). The night meal omits
shukto and could include luchis, a palao and a dalna of various delicately
spiced vegetables.
COMMON BENGALI
COOKING STYLES:
1.
AMBAL
: A sour dish made either with several vegetables or with fish, the sourness
being produced by the addition of tamarind pulp.
2.
BHAJA
: Anything fried, either by itself or in batter.
3.
BHAPA
: Fish or vegetables steamed with oil and spices. A classic steaming technique
is to wrap the fish in banana leaf to give it a faint musky, smoky scent.
4.
BHATE
: Any vegetable, such as potatoes, beans, pumpkins or even dal, first boiled
whole and then mashed and seasoned with mustard oil or ghee and spices.
5.
BHUNA
: A term of Urdu origin, meaning fried for a long time with ground and whole
spices over high heat. Usually applied to meat.
6.
DALNA
: Mixed vegetables (echor) or eggs, cooked in a medium thick gravy seasoned
with ground spices, ginger especially garom mashla (hot spices) and a touch of
ghee.
7.
DOM
: Vegetables, especially potatoes, or meat, cooked over a covered pot slowly
over a low heat.
8.
GHANTO
: Different complementary vegetables (e.g., cabbage, green peas, potatoes or
banana blossom, coconut, chickpeas) are chopped or finely grated and cooked
with both a phoron and ground spices. Dried pellets of dal (boris) are often
added to the ghanto. Ghee is commonly added at the end. Non-vegetarian ghantos
are also made, with fish or fish heads added to vegetables. The famous
murighanto is made with fish heads cooked in a fine variety of rice. Some
ghantos are very dry while others a thick and juicy.
9.
JHAL
: Literally, hot. A great favourite in West Bengali households, this is made
with fish or shrimp or crab, first lightly fried and then cooked in a light
sauce of ground red chilli or ground mustard and a flavoring of panch-phoron or
kala jeera. Being dryish it is often eaten with a little bit of dal pored over
the rice.
10.
JHOL
: A light fish or vegetable stew seasoned with ground spices like ginger,
cumin, coriander, chilli and turmeric with pieces of fish and longitudinal
slices of vegetables floating in it. The gravy is thin yet extremely
flavourful. Whole green chillies are usually added at the end and green
coriander leaves are used to season for extra taste.
11.
KALIA
: A very rich preparation of fish, meat or vegetables using a lot of oil and
ghee with a sauce usually based on ground ginger and onion paste and garom
mashla.
12.
KOFTAS
(or Boras) : Ground meat or vegetable croquettes bound together by spices
and/or eggs served alone or in savoury gravy.
13.
KORMA
: Another term of Urdu origin, meaning meat or chicken cooked in a mild yoghurt
based gravy with ghee instead of oil.
14.
KASSA:
This is a way of cooking for specially red meats like lamb or mutton is bhunoad
in a very thick spicy masala of onion, ginger, garlic, chilli powder, turmeric
powder and cumin powder and made into a gravy sort.
15.
PORA
: Literally, burnt. Vegetables are wrapped in leaves and roasted over a wood or
charcoal fire. Some, like eggplants (brinjals/aubergines), are put directly
over the flames. Before eating the roasted vegetable is mixed with oil and
spices.
16. PHORON: It is predominantly the kind of tempering, which is used in the
preparation of lentils, with various lentils having their own tempering.
COMMON BENGALI
COOKING EQUIPMENTS:
1.
Bonti
:- A curved raised blade attached to a long, flat cutting vegetables, fish and
meat. The bonti used for fish and meat is kept separate from vegetable bonti
and the non-veg ansh-bonti (ansh implies scales of fish).
2.
Hari
:-A cooking pot with a rounded bottom, slightly narrowed at the neck with a
wide rim to facilitate holding, while draining excess of rice water.
3.
Dekchi
:-Referred as saucepan without a handle, usually of greater depth. Used for
boiling, sautéing
4.
Karai
:-A cooking pot shaped like a Chinese wok, but much deeper. Used for deep
frying, stir-frying as well as for preparations and sauces and gravy. It’s
usually made of iron or aluminium and usually has two-looped handles.
5.
Tawa
:-It’s a griddle, used for making porothas.
6.
Thala
:-A circular plate of authentically brass, but now a days of steel, on which
food is served.
7.
Khunti
:-Long handled implement of steel or iron with a flat thin belt-shaped piece,
used as stirrers.
8.
Hatha
:-A metal spoon with indention, used as stirrers and also for transferring food
stuffs.
9.
Sarashi
:-An equipment, used for holding vessels hot on range.
10. Chakni :-A sieve.
11. Chamuch :-A spoon.
12. Sheel nora :-Grinding
stone, slab of 16 inches by 10 inches and a small bolster-shaped stone roller 9 inches long. Both the slab and roller are
chipped from time to time as they are worn smooth.
13. Hamal Dista :-Motar and
pestle, which could be used in place of sheelnora. Usually used for grinding spices
to a fine powder or to a fine paste with the addition of water.
14. Dhenki: A long wooden board
mounted on a short pedestal, in the middle, much like a sea-saw. The tradition
Bengali instrument of taking the husk off the rice.
15. Ghutni: It is a wooden hand
blender used for pureeing lentils and sauces.
16. Jhanjri: It is a large wier
meshed flat spoon used for deep frying fish or breads.
17. Belun chaki: Round pastry
board and rolling pin.
18. Kuruni: It is a uni -
tasker, to grate coconuts.
BENGALI FOOD ITEMS: ghee
bhat
·
Dolma or Patoler
Dolma: The name is coming from Turkey, but the food is different. The vegetable
Patol is stuffed either with a combination of grated coconut, chickpeas, etc.
or more commonly with fish and then fried. The fish is boiled with turmeric and
salt, then bones are removed and then onion, ginger and garam masala are fried
in oil and boiled fish is added and churned to prepare the stuffing.
·
Paturi: Typically
fish, seasoned with spices (usually shorshe) wrapped in banana leaves and
steamed or roasted over a charcoal fire.
·
Polau: Fragrant
dish of rice with ghee, spices and small pieces of vegetables. Long grained
aromatic rice is usually used, but some aromatic short grained versions such as
Kalijira or Gobindobhog may also be used.
·
Tarakri : A
general term often used in Bengal the way `curry` is used in English.
Originally from Persian, the word first meant uncooked garden vegetables. From
this it was a natural extension to mean cooked vegetables or even fish and
vegetables cooked together.
·
Chorchori : Usually a vegetable dish with one
or more varieties of vegetables cut into longish strips, sometimes with the
stalks of leafy greens added, all lightly seasoned with spices like mustard or
poppy seeds and flavoured with a phoron. The skin and bone of large fish like bhetki
or chitol can be made into a chachchari called kanta-chachchari, kanta,
meaning fish-bone.
·
Chhanchra : A combination dish made with
different vegetables, portions of fish head and fish oil (entrails).
·
Chhenchki : Tiny pieces of one or more
vegetable - or, sometimes even the peels (of potatoes, lau, pumpkin or patol
for example) - usually flavored with panch-phoron or whole mustard seeds or
kala jeera. Chopped onion and garlic can also be used, but hardly any ground
spices.
·
Chitol
Macher muitha: Chitol is a fish specially consumed during the Durga puja. The
meat from the back part after removing the bones is shaped into koftas and
simmered into a gravy.
·
Chingri
malai curry: The preparation is a speciality of the cuisine and is normally
prepared during the special occasions. Prawns are stewed in a gravy made with
boiled onion paste, thickened with coconut milk with a touch of red chilli
powder and turmeric.
·
Doi
maach: This is a classical preparation of Bengal in which the fish is stewed in
a yoghurt based gravy.
·
Kasha
mangsho: This is a semi – dry preparation of the lamb that gets a unique dark
colour from the iron kadhai in which it is cooked and caramelized sugar. This
can be had with luchi.
·
Dhokar
dalna: A gram flour batter is cooked with spices and then spread on a tray and
steamed. It is then cut into small pieces in the shape of a diamond and deep –
fat fried. The fried dumplings are now stewed in a gravy of boiled onion paste,
thickened with gram flour and whole spices.
·
Kobiraji
cutlet: This preparation is made from the chicken breast which is marinated
with turmeric, salt, ginger and garlic paste, onion paste, green chillies and red chilli powder. The
marinated chicken is coated in alight batter of rice flour and eggs and deep
fat fried until golden brown.
·
Aloo
posto: Potatoes are cooked in freshly ground
poppy seed paste and flavoured with diffetent spices and turmeric.
·
Chop:
Croquettes, usually coated with crushed biscuit or breadcrumbs.
·
Cutlet:
Very different from the Cutlets of the Brits, this is referred typically to a
crumb coated thinly spread out dough, made generally of chicken/mutton minced,
mixed together with onion, bread crumbs and chillies. Generally it is then
dipped in egg and coated in breadcrumb, fried and served with thin julienne of
cucumber, carrots, radish and onions. Often an egg mixed with a teaspoon or two
water and a pinch of salt is dropped on top of the frying cutlet, to make it
into a "Kabiraji" the Bengali pronunciation of a "Coverage"
Cutlet, influenced by the British.
·
Shukto:
This is a dish that is essential bitter, made up of neem or other bitter
leaves, bitter gourd, brinjals, potatoes, radish and green bananas, with spices
like turmeric, ginger, mustard and radhuni (celery seed) pastes.
·
Shak:
Any kind of green leafy vegetable, like spinach and mustard greens, often
cooked till just wilted in a touch of oil and tempering of nigela seeds.
BENGALI BREADS: Though Bengalis,
primarily loves to eat rice, yet there are a few typical Bengali Breads, which
are quite famous in various parts of Bengal. Some of the prominent among these
are,
1. Luchi :-Eaten for mainly snacks, equivalent to the north Indian poories
(the difference is that luchi is made out of refined flour and fried without
colour) and taken very commonly with cholar dal tempered with coconut.
2. Khasta Luchi :-The dough is much richer with fat and flaky. Hence, known
as khasta kachuri.
3. Porotha :-It is a kind of flaky bread, made out of whole wheat flour and
is essentially triangular in shape.
4. Roti :-Whole wheat flour bread, toasted on griddle.
5. Radhabollobbi :-An urad dal stuffed poori made out of whole wheat flour
normally had with aloo dom.
6. Dhakai porotha :-Flaky, layered bread from Dhaka in Bangladesh.
7. Matter (green peas) kachuri:-Flaky bread, stuffed with matar (green
peas) paste and deep-fried. Heing is commonly used in the green peas mixture.
SEASONAL AND FESTIVAL
CONNECTION WITH BENGALI FOOD: The Bengali calendar is a solar one
based on the six seasons – two months for each of Grishma, Summer; Barsha,
Monsoon; Sharat and Hemanta, early and late Autumn; Sheet, Winter and Basanta,
Spring.
Summer – Grishma :-
·
Summer vegetables
include lau, white gourd, or okra or potol, the small striped gourd or parwal,
karola and uchche
·
Meat, eggs, onions
and garlic, on the other hand, are studiously avoided.
·
Neembegun – where
small dices of aubergines are fried with the leaves of neem trees is said to
have anti-chicken pox properly.
·
Especially for lunch
menus during summer sukto (a stew of seasonal vegetables, with bitterish in
taste) is an integral part of every household menu. And, among the other dishes
which makes up the menu, are Moong dal, Masoor dal and lemon, Macher jhol,
lau-chingiri, lau-ghanto etc
Monsoon – Rainy (Borsha):
·
The most
well-known Bengali dish associated with the monsoon is Khichuri, rice
and dal cooked together and panchphoran and ghee. There are of course many
kinds of khichuris, depending on what kind of dal is being used. The consistency
may be thin, thick or dry and fluffy like a pilaf, plain or with seasonal
winter vegetables like new potatoes, green peas and cauliflower added to the
basic rice-dal mixture. The one constant factor is the use of atap rice,
usually of the short-grained variety.
·
The vegetable
varieties include kachu or taro, pumpkin, kumro, green like shashni shak,
puishak, kachu shak. The monsoon is also associated with the ilish,
called hilsa by the British. It is referred to as the caviar of the tropics.
Sharat – Hemanta – Autumn :-
·
It’s the season of
festivity. First too come is Lord Biswakarma (god of tools) in which day fire
is not lighted in any household. So, all the foods are cooked a day prior and
hard. Next, to come is goddess Durga. The day of Astami is purely
vegetarian, whereby for lunch we have khichuri, with papors and pickles,
and at dinner after spending the whole evening Pandal hopping, there would be
round golden fried luchis, puffed up like a balloon. However, if a lot of fat
is observed during the process of making the dough, the bread instead of
becoming puffy becomes flaky and is known as khasta luchi. Though luchis, can
be eaten with anything, the two classical vegetarian dishes associated with
this ceremonial occasion; a potato dish called alur dam, and a dal made
with yellow splitpeas and tiny pieces of coconut. Alur dam to Bengali means a
dish of potatoes, usually whole or quartered, cooked with a thick spicy sauce.
It is usually eaten with luchis or wheat-flour chapatis, but not rice. And the
dessert course being kheer (simply reduced milk) or payeesh (rice
cooked in milk and cardamoms flavour). Navami, being the last day of Durga’s
stay, is gastronomically opposite of Ashtami, meat eating is the order of the
day, but without any onion or garlic. And on the evening of Bijoya Dashami, the
images in the community pandals are loaded on to trucks and taken to the
nearest river, the Hooghly in Calcutta, for the final site of bhashan –
throwing them into water. It is then in the wake of departed Goddess, that the
most beautiful aspect of Bijoya Dashami comes discarding all ill-feelings of
hostility, anger and enimity. Within the family the younger people touch
their elders’ feet (pranom) and receive their blessings, while contemporaries
embrace each other with good wishes. As the evening deepens, relative's friends
and neighbours drop in to convey their Bijoya greetings. They are offered
sweets.
·
By the end of the
month of Kartik (October), urban Bengalis resume there normal pattern of life
in school, college and offices. But in rural Bengal this is a time of great
expectation. For the following month, Agrahayan (November), is also the
time to harvest the rice that gave the region its soubriquet, ‘Golden Bengal’ (Sonar
Bangla). The name itself, Agrahayan, is compounded of two words – agra
(best or foremost) and hayan (unhusked rice).
·
Once the rice has
been harvested, rural Bengal propitiates the gods for their bounty through the
joyful festival of nabanno, which literally means ‘new rice’. An offering
to god of milk, gur, pieces of sugar cane, bananas and above all the new rice.
Sheet – Winter :
·
In the country one
can feast your eyes on fields of mustard awash in yellow blossom, on patches of
maroony-red lalshak, on the subtle greens of cabbages on the earth and the
climbing vine of the lau spreading over thatched roofs and bamboo frames.
·
In the city
markets the rich, purple aubergines are offset by snowy-white cauliflower's
peeking from within their leaves, carrots, tomatoes, beet, cucumbers, scallions
and bunches of delicate corriander leaves invite you to stop cooking and make
only salads.
·
The infinite
variety of leafy, green spinach, mustard, laushak, betoshak, muloshak,
·
But somehow the
most important and joyful thing about winter to a Bengali is the opportunity
and ability to eat far more abundantly than during any other season, to indulge
in all the rich meats, prawns, eggs and fish dishes.
·
The colonial years
have left behind the festivities of Christmas and New Year which the Bengali
has enthusiastically adopted and the early winter month of Poush sees the pithaparban,
a folk festival designed specially for the making and eating of large
quantities of sweet.
·
Cabbages, potatoes
and peas became the base for a spicy winter ghanto which rivals the mochar
ghanta has been a favourite since medieval times.
·
Cauliflower's,
combined with potatoes, were made into a rich and fragrant dalna that was a
wonderful variation of the summer specialty, the potal and potato dalna.
·
As for green peas,
the Bengali spurned the plain boiled version served on the dinner tables of his
British ruler and made delectable savories like matarshutir kachuri or chirar
pulao or the filling for shingara (Samosas) with them, aside from adding them
to other vegetable dishes.
·
Perhaps, one of
the major festivals of winter is the Saraswati puja – goddesses of books and
the official harbinger of spring. During Saraswati Puja, eating of Gotasheddho
is compulsory, whereby none of the vegetables are cut and one just boiled
whole. The goddess is offered fruits like apple, shakalu, sugar-cane bits,
bananas, dates and kul (a kind of plum) that would be offered to the goddess.
The bananas offered to Saraswati are special type, very sweet, but full of
large black seeds.
UNIQUENESS OF BENGALI CUISINE:
An abundant land
provides for an abundant table. The nature and variety of dishes found in
Bengali cooking are unique even in India. Fish cookery is one of its
better-known features and distinguishes it from the cooking of the landlocked
regions. Bengal's countless rivers, ponds and lakes teem with many kinds of
freshwater fish that closely resemble catfish, bass, shad or mullet. Bengalis
prepare fish in innumerable ways - steamed or braised, or stewed with greens or
other vegetables and with sauces that are mustard based or thickened with
poppyseeds. You will not find these types of fish dishes elsewhere in India. Bengalis
also excel in the cooking of vegetables. They prepare a variety of the
imaginative dishes using the many types of vegetables that grow here year
round. They can make ambrosial dishes out of the oftentimes rejected peels,
stalks and leaves of vegetables. They use fuel-efficient methods, such as
steaming fish or vegetables in a small covered bowl nestled at the top of the
rice cooker.
The use of spices for
both fish and vegetable dishes is quite extensive and includes many
combinations not found in other parts of India. Examples are the onion-flavored
kalonji seeds and five-spice (a mixture of cumin, fennel, fenugreek, kalonji,
and black mustard). The trump card card of Bengali cooking probably is the
addition of this phoron, a combination of whole spices, fried and added at the
start or finish of cooking as a flavouring special to each dish. Bengalis share
a love of whole black mustard with South Indians, but the use of freshly ground
mustard paste is unique to Bengal.
All of India clamors
for Bengali sweets. Although grains, beans and vegetables are used in preparing
many deserts, as in other regions, the most delicious varieties are dairy-based
and uniquely Bengali.
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